Sunday, April 18, 2010

Zurich, Switzerland

The above 2 pictures are from our Croix Rousse neighborhood, the day before we left for Zurich for my friend Lisa Ross' opening at Galerie Kashya Hildebrand. This next photograph is of one of the many markers throughout Lyon to Resistants, victims, heroes, and heroines during WWII. I see this one every day and I wonder who Lola was? She died "heroically at the age of 24."
On our way to Zurich, we took my dear friend Corinne's advice and stopped in Cerdon to visit this remarkable memorial to the Resistance, specifically to the Maquis.

On the side is this quote by Aragon, "Where I die, the homeland is born."

Here rests an unknown Maquis:

I was overwhelmed by the nearby cemetery filled with many stones for the "unknown"
Guthrie and I had a good cry but he cried longer. He kept saying that he couldn't believe the Nazis killed 6,000 people. I did not have the heart to tell him that they killed 6 million. We took a little piece of feathery moss from this site to remember it always.
These stones marked the graves for the known Muslim Resistants.

Zurich feels like a fairytale city. Switzerland is so wealthy and organized. But even there, we found paper bags over the heads of some of the statues. This one was near our lovely hotel, Hotel Adler, in the old city.

Our first night we stopped at a lovely bar for a great Mojito. The kids had croissants. Here I am wearing the amazing hat David bought for me in Lyon. It was so chilly in Zurich.

Guthrie and Harper in the window of the gallery during Lisa's opening. Masserattis and Jaguars kept pulling up and ladies with facelifts and pink stilettos kept falling out. Lisa's show is amazing and it was wonderful to see her. Cornelia Hesse-Honegger came too and we made plans to meet at her apartment the next morning.

Cornelia's apartment is truly stunning - cool, modernist, clean, full of art and her incredible focus on insects that she collects near nuclear facilities all over the world. Here is one of her meticulous, hyper-real drawings of one of them:
A piece from her art collection, from Art Zero....
Her living room....
Her Piero Manzoni that I covet:

2 insects under microscope to be drawn:
A pencil sketch of a bug on vellum hanging in her studio window:
Her magnifying glasses on her studio desk:
One of the 12 dolls she made when she was a new mother:
Her kitchen -
on the kitchen table -
crystals in her water to aliven it -
Guthrie's sheet of money he made while at Cornelia's. He gave a 9,000$ note to Cornelia and a $900 one to me.
Harper's drawing and the tips of my Manchester shoes:

Some of the many bugs Cornelia collects. These are from Vietnam.

Her father is an artist and was friends with the likes of Jean Cocteau:

Harper looking at Cornelia's childhood Barbar book:
Cornelia's painting in the stairwell on our way out -
Saying goodbye -

An shop window on the way back to our hotel =
Harper trying to open the doors to the Gross Munster Church:

Sigmar Polke designed the windows!

These men - there were about 60 - brought tears to our eyes when they started singing.
We climbed one of the 2 church towers, much to David's dismay, up the slippery and worn marble spiral stairs and the old wooden ones, but what an amazing view!

And we should not forget that Zurich - specifically Cabaret Voltaire - is where "DaDA was born":

So many beautiful dogs in Switzerland -
We stumbled upon an incredible Bosnian Quilt Exhibition in the Predigerkirche. A group of women came together during the war in the 1990s to begin this quiltmaking collective, organized by a Swiss woman.

Cornelia Hesse-Honegger's mother was also an artist and graphic designer. She designed the 3 key logo for UBS bank - a symbol you see all over the country. She made unique folding books - some of fairy tales but the characters had symbols and there were no words.
Windows in the little trolley station that takes you up the steep hill in Zurich.
A view from the top -
One of the University buildings -

A little park near the University where men were playing a game of throwing sticks while another man flew his little helicopter - the kids were delighted:

A typical statue somewhere in Zurich -

A hair salon in Zurich -

One of my favourite Citroens. My Uncle Wolfgang used to drive a car like this.....
Guthrie learning to milk a "cow" at a little fair in town to celebrate the guest canton for the annual event that celebrates the history of Guilds in Switzerland. Of course, no woman can belong to a guild.

The man weighs the amount of milk Guthrie got and gives him a diploma. David and I tried dandelion wine and smoked ostrich.
Harper learning to milk....
Wearing the "milking stool," much to the delight of the man who was showing people how to make cheese -
"Using" the "milking stool" -
A coal-powered miniature train carrying the Mayor of the guest canton....

A historical mural in the medieval town of Aarau, where we went with Lisa to see a big and impressive show of Fiona Tan:

The eaves were unforgettable -


  1. You are simply glorious in your new hat, and I covet Harper's Barcelona dress.

  2. I second what Lesley said. Also, you are very naughty with that milking stool.

  3. Those eaves are nice and the shutters are amazing too.

  4. hey, i didn't invent that milking stool! it was like that! isn't it unbelievable????